About this permit
Great Sand Dunes issues one backcountry permit that covers two very different trips. Dunes Backcountry is non-designated camping anywhere in the 30 square mile dunefield west of the high ridge and beyond the day use area, capped at 20 permits per day for groups of no more than six. Sand Ramp Trail camping is at seven designated sites, each holding six people, marked by a metal arrowhead post you must camp within 50 feet of.
Permits are available year round on a rolling three month window, released at 7:00 am Pacific each day. There are no first-come first-served permits at the park, though same-day reservations are possible if quota remains.
The route
The dunefield trip is short and brutal. Walk past the day use area, climb the first high ridge, and keep going until you see no structures and no roads. The Park Service asks for a minimum of one hour of climbing to reach the top of the first ridge and at least 1.5 miles west of the Medano Creek bed. Set up in a low flat area away from vegetation.
The Sand Ramp Trail is the other half of this permit and it is a normal trail. Buck Creek sits 1.0 mile from the Amphitheater lot. From the Horse Parking Lot it is 2.8 miles to Escape Dunes, 4.1 to Indian Grove, 5.0 to Little Medano, 7.0 to Aspen, 10.1 to Cold Creek and 11.6 to Sand Creek. Aspen sits at 9,240 feet, the highest designated backcountry site in the park.
Your parking lot is assigned from where you sleep the first night, which is unusual and worth knowing before you book.
Why it matters
There is almost nowhere else in the country where a park lets you sleep in open sand with no designated site, no fire ring and no neighbor. The park caps the dunefield at 20 permits a day and asks only that you get past the first ridgeline, which is the difference between a novelty and real solitude.
The feeling
Climbing dunes with a full pack is the most tiring easy mile you will ever walk. Then you crest the ridge and everything man-made disappears at once. The wind erases your tracks by morning, the sand holds the day's heat, and the sky at 8,000 feet is thick with stars.