About this permit
The Wonderland Trail is a 93-mile loop around Mount Rainier with about 27,000 feet of elevation gain and 27,000 feet of loss. It is not a thru-hike. It circles the mountain and returns to where it started. Every night is a specific named camp with its own reservation, and NPS is clear that hikers doing the complete Wonderland are limited to designated camps only, with cross-country zones not permitted.
Permits come through Recreation.gov. Roughly two thirds of summer season (June-September) backpacking and climbing permits are made available for advance reservation; the remaining one third are issued first-come, first-served at park Wilderness Information Centers. Because building a whole 93-mile itinerary means getting a dozen consecutive camps to line up, the park runs an optional early access lottery in February: winners get an individual access window between March and April, and are limited to a single reservation during that period. Everything left over goes on general sale April 25, for camp dates between June 1 and October 10.
The park's own advice is blunt: it is unlikely that visitors will be able to create a full Wonderland Trail itinerary during or after the general on-sale. If you want the whole loop in one go, enter the lottery, then set cancellation alerts on the camps it did not give you.
Timing matters as much as permits. NPS says the trail is typically mostly snow-free from mid-July to October, and that in an average snow year it is not advisable to hike it until mid- to late July.
The route
The Wonderland runs 93 miles around Mount Rainier and every night of it is a specific named camp you reserved in advance. NPS is explicit: hikers doing the complete Wonderland Trail are limited to camping in designated camps only, and cross-country zones are not permitted.
The camps sit in three park areas, which is also how Recreation.gov groups them. Longmire area camps include Devil's Dream, Pyramid Creek, Paradise River, Maple Creek, Snow Lake, Lake George, South Puyallup River, North Puyallup River, Klapatche Park and Golden Lakes. Carbon River area camps include South Mowich River, Mowich Lake, Eagle's Roost, Cataract Valley, Carbon River, Dick Creek, Mystic, Granite Creek, James, Yellowstone Cliffs and Ipsut Creek. White River area camps include Sunrise, Berkeley Park, Granite Creek's neighbours on the east side, Summerland, Indian Bar, Nickel Creek, Olallie Creek and Deer Creek.
Most people start at Longmire and go clockwise, which is the direction the park's own trail description uses. There is no wrong direction, but the camps you can actually get are what shapes the itinerary. That is decided on the reservation calendar, not on a map: in the February lottery first, then in the cancellations that come back all summer.
Why it matters
The Wonderland is a circuit, not a thru-hike. It starts and finishes in the same place and never leaves the mountain. Congress designated 97% of Mount Rainier National Park as wilderness in 1988, and the Wonderland is the trail that immerses you in it. Demand is the catch: the park says demand for wilderness camps and high-use climbing routes exceeds capacity. It runs an early access lottery each February so that fewer people are competing simultaneously for multi-night itineraries, and a cancellation alert fills the gaps after that.